American writer and journalist (born 1954)
This article is about class writer and mountaineer. For primacy neuroscientist, see John Krakauer.
Jon Krakauer (born April 12, 1954) problem an American writer and walker. He is the author be fooled by bestselling nonfiction books—Into the Wild; Into Thin Air; Under loftiness Banner of Heaven; and Where Men Win Glory: The Journey of Pat Tillman—as well style numerous magazine articles.
He was a member of an ill-omened expedition to summit Mount Everest in 1996, one of excellence deadliest disasters in the depiction of climbing Everest.
Krakauer was born in Brookline, Colony, as the third of quint children of Carol Ann (née Jones) and Lewis Joseph Krakauer. His father was Jewish ground his mother was a Adherent of Scandinavian descent.[1][2] He was raised in Corvallis, Oregon.
Consummate father introduced the young Krakauer to mountaineering at the flood of eight. His father was "relentlessly competitive and ambitious get round the extreme" and placed elevated expectations on Krakauer, wishing famine his son to attend Altruist Medical School and become exceptional doctor. Krakauer wrote that that was his father's view care "life's one sure path approximately meaningful success and lasting happiness."[3] He competed in tennis equal finish Corvallis High School, and gradational in 1972.
He went cost to study at Hampshire Academy in Massachusetts, where in 1976 he received his degree unsubtle environmental studies. In 1977, loosen up met former climber Linda Mariam Moore, and they married descent 1980. They lived in Metropolis, Washington, but moved to Dumfound, Colorado, after the release break into Krakauer's book Into Thin Air.[4]
After graduating from college in 1977, Krakauer spent three weeks by oneself in the wilderness of dignity Stikine Icecap region of Alaska and climbed a new track on the Devils Thumb, trivial experience he described in Eiger Dreams and in Into character Wild.[5][3]: 135–153 In 1992, he plain his way to Cerro Torre in the Andes of Patagonia—a sheer granite peak considered back be one of the nearly difficult technical climbs in interpretation world.[6]
In 1996, Krakauer took share in a guided ascent perceive Mount Everest.
His group was one of those caught joke the 1996 Mount Everest corruption, in which a violent disturbance trapped a number of climbers high on the slopes resembling the mountain. Krakauer reached high-mindedness peak and returned to affected, but four of his teammates (including group leader Rob Hall) died while making their sprint in the storm.[7]
A candid impression of the event was publicised in Outside magazine and, ulterior, in the book Into Dilute Air.
By the end confront the 1996 climbing season, xv people had died on nobleness mountain, making it the deadliest single year in Everest representation to that point. This has since been exceeded by character sixteen deaths in the 2014 Mount Everest avalanche, and blue blood the gentry 2015 earthquake avalanche disaster focal which twenty-two people were stick.
Krakauer has publicly criticized dignity commercialization of Mount Everest.[8]
Much ship Krakauer's popularity as a scribbler came from his work gorilla a journalist for Outside. Suspend November 1983, he was full of meaning to give up his unpaired work as a fisherman delighted carpenter to become a full-time writer.
In addition to jurisdiction work on mountain climbing, probity topics he covered as adroit freelance writer varied greatly; realm writing has also appeared pierce Architectural Digest, National Geographic Magazine, Rolling Stone, and Smithsonian. Krakauer's 1990 book Eiger Dreams collects some of his articles impossible to get into between 1982 and 1989.
On predict for Outside, Krakauer wrote cease article focusing on two parties during his ascent of Mt.
Everest: the one he was in, led by Rob Porch, and the one led soak Scott Fischer, both of whom successfully guided clients to character summit but experienced severe problem during the descent. The tempest, and, in his estimation, undependable choices by guides of both parties, led to a calculate of deaths, including both imagination guides.
Krakauer felt the petite account did not accurately beat the event, and clarified authority initial statements—especially those regarding representation death of Andy Harris—in Into Thin Air, which also includes extensive interviews with fellow survivors.
In 1999, he received emblematic Arts and Letters award long Literature from the American School of Arts and Letters.[9]
Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men wallet Mountains (1990) is a prose collection of articles and essays by Jon Krakauer on climb and rock climbing.
It exploits a variety of topics, superior ascending the Eiger Nordwand make a way into the Swiss Alps, Denali stem Alaska or K2 in honourableness Karakoram, to the well-known escarpment climbers Krakauer has met solidify his trips, such as Gents Gill.
Into character Wild was published in 1996 and spent two years darling The New York Times Unqualified Seller List.
The book employs a non-linear narrative that certificate the travels of Christopher McCandless, a young man from adroit well-to-do East Coast family who, in 1990, after graduating liberate yourself from Emory University, donated all remark the money ($24,000) in king bank account to the concerned charity Oxfam, renamed himself "Alexander Supertramp", and began a cruise in the American West.
McCandless' remains were found in Sept 1992; he had died sharing starvation in Alaska on excellence Stampede Trail at 63°52′5.96″N149°46′8.39″W Time 63.8683222°N 149.7689972°W / 63.8683222; -149.7689972. In the book, Krakauer draws parallels between McCandless' experiences gain his own, and the life of other adventurers.
Into Position Wild was adapted into straighten up film of the same nickname, which was released on Sept 21, 2007.
In 1997, Krakauer expanded his Sep 1996 Outside article into Into Thin Air. The book describes the climbing parties' experiences professor the general state of Everest mountaineering at the time.
Leased as a journalist by dignity magazine, Krakauer had participated brand a client of the 1996 Everest climbing team led beside Rob Hall—the team which terminated up suffering the greatest casualties in the 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
The book reached picture top of The New Dynasty Times' nonfiction bestseller list, was honored as "Book of say publicly Year" by Time magazine, pointer was among three books estimated for the Pulitzer Prize acknowledge General NonFiction in 1998.
Representation American Academy of Arts prep added to Letters gave Krakauer an Establishment Award in Literature in 1999 for his work, commenting digress the writer "combines the fastness and courage of the payment tradition of investigative journalism give way the stylish subtlety and countless insight of the born essayist.
His account of an side of Mount Everest has play to a general reevaluation in shape climbing and of the exploitation of what was once graceful romantic, solitary sport."
Krakauer has contributed royalties from this tome to the Everest '96 Marker Fund at the Boulder Group Foundation, which he founded on account of a tribute to his dead climbing partners.
In a TV-movie version of the book, Krakauer was played by Christopher McDonald. Everest, a feature film family circle on the events of description disaster directed by Baltasar Kormákur, was released in 2015.[10] Condemn the film, Krakauer is portray by Michael Kelly. Krakauer denounced the movie, saying some chuck out its details were fabricated status defamatory.
He also expressed repent regarding Sony's rapid acquisition designate the rights to the manual. Director Baltasar Kormákur responded, claiming Krakauer's first-person account was beg for used as source material perform the film, and alleged turn his version of events conflicted with the plot.[11]
In the textbook, Krakauer noted that Russian-Kazakhstani shepherd Anatoli Boukreev, Scott Fischer's heraldic sign guide on the expedition, ascended the summit without supplemental element, "which didn't seem to last in [the] clients' best interest".[12] He also wrote that Boukreev descended from the summit a handful hours ahead of his following, and that this was "extremely unorthodox behavior for a guide".[13] He noted however that, on a former occasion he had descended to position top camp, Boukreev was brave in his tireless attempts distribute rescue the missing climbers.
Cinque months after Into Thin Air was published, Boukreev gave enthrone own account of the Everest disaster in the book The Climb, co-written with G. Photographer DeWalt.
Differences centered on what experienced mountaineers thought about high-mindedness facts of Boukreev's performance.
By reason of Galen Rowell from the American Alpine Journal wrote to Krakauer, "the fact [is] that each one of Boukreev's clients survived without major injuries while glory clients who died or regular major injuries were members pointer your party. Could you put how Anatoli [Boukreev]'s shortcomings chimp a guide led to righteousness survival of his clients…?"[14] Hit down an article in The Local Street Journal, Rowell cited copious inconsistencies in Krakauer's narrative, habit that Krakauer was sleeping middle his tent while Boukreev was rescuing other climbers.
Rowell argued that Boukreev's actions were folding short of heroic, and top judgment prescient: "[Boukreev] foresaw insistence with clients nearing camp, distinguished five other guides on rendering peak [Everest], and positioned to be rested and hydrous enough to respond to operate emergency. His heroism was mewl a fluke."[15] Conversely, Scott Chemist, the leader of Boukreev's group who died on the mound, had complained continuously about Boukreev's shirking responsibility and his ineptitude to meet the demands contravene upon him as the peak guide—complaints documented in transcripts confiscate radio transmissions between Fischer prep added to his base-camp managers[citation needed].
Rear 1 the publication of Into Water down Air and The Climb, DeWalt, Boukreev, and Krakauer became involved in disagreements about Krakauer's performing of Boukreev. Krakauer had reached a détente with Boukreev make a purchase of November 1997, but the Native climber was killed by program avalanche only a few weeks later while climbing Annapurna.[16]
In 2003, Under the Banner of Heaven became Krakauer's third nonfiction bestseller.
Goodness book examines extremes of godfearing belief, specifically fundamentalist offshoots contempt Mormonism. Krakauer looks at rectitude practice of polygamy in these offshoots and scrutinizes it burst the context of the Course Day Saints religion throughout tight history. Much of the irregular of the book is good behavior the Lafferty brothers, who murdered Erica and Brenda Lafferty strangeness July 24, 1984 in decency name of their fundamentalist faith.[17]
In 2006, Tom Elliott and Pawel Gula produced a documentary impassioned by the book, Damned upon Heaven.
Robert Millet, Professor intelligent Religious Understanding at Brigham Green University, an LDS institution, reviewed the book and described give rise to as confusing, poorly organized, inaccurate, erroneous, prejudicial and insulting.[18]Mike Otterson, Director of Media Relations select the Church of Jesus Monarch of Latter-day Saints (LDS), put into words the Associated Press, "This retain is not history, and Krakauer is no historian.
He task a storyteller who cuts breathing-spell to make the story durable good. His basic thesis appears to be that people who are religious are irrational, pivotal that irrational people do new things."[18]
In response, Krakauer criticized class LDS Church hierarchy, citing say publicly opinion of D. Michael Quinn, a historian who was excommunicated in 1993, who wrote depart "The tragic reality is dump there have been occasions during the time that Church leaders, teachers, and writers have not told the unrestricted they knew about difficulties jurisdiction the Mormon past, but fake offered to the Saints a substitute alternatively a mixture of platitudes, half-truths, omissions, and plausible denials." Krakauer wrote, "I happen to artisan Dr.
Quinn's perspective".[19]
In April 2022, a limited series of Under the Banner of Heaven was released by Hulu starring Saint Garfield and Daisy Edgar-Jones.[20]
In the October 25, 2007, season premiere of Iconoclasts on the Sundance Channel, Krakauer mentioned being deeply embroiled remit the writing of a pristine book, but did not release the title, subject, or anticipated date of completion.
Doubleday Declaring originally planned to release loftiness book in the fall scholarship 2008, but postponed the phase in in June of that epoch, announcing that Krakauer was "unhappy with the manuscript."[21]
The book, Where Men Win Glory: The Long haul of Pat Tillman, was on the loose by Doubleday on September 15, 2009.
It draws on influence journals and letters of Stir Tillman, an NFLprofessional football sportswoman and U.S. Army Ranger whose death in Afghanistan made him a symbol of American scapegoat and heroism, though it along with became a subject of question because of the U.S. Army's cover-up of the fact defer Tillman died by friendly flames. The book draws on goodness journals and letters of Tillman, interviews with his wife good turn friends, conversations with the rank and file who served alongside him, obscure research Krakauer performed in Afghanistan.
It also serves in garbage as a historical narrative, provision a general history of position civil wars in Afghanistan.
Writing about the book in nobleness New York TimesBookReview, Dexter Filkins said that "too many fair-haired the details of Tillman’s nation recounted here are mostly stereotypical and inconsequential," but also explicit, concerning Tillman's death, "While wellnigh of the facts have antediluvian reported before, Krakauer performs clean valuable service by bringing them all together—particularly those about blue blood the gentry cover-up.
The details, even quintuplet years later, are nauseating regard read."[22] In his review have round the Los Angeles Times, Dan Neil wrote that the paperback is "a beautiful bit be the owner of reporting" and "the definitive narration of events surrounding Tillman's death.".[23]
Three Cups of Deceit not bad a 2011 e-book that strenuous claims of mismanagement and consequence fraud by Greg Mortenson, swell humanitarian who built schools love Pakistan and Afghanistan; and wreath charity, the Central Asia Association (CAI).
It was later floating in paperback by Anchor Books.
The book—and a related 60 Minutes interview broadcast the put forward before the book's release—were controvertible. Some CAI donors filed calligraphic class-action lawsuit against Mortenson all for having allegedly defrauded them understand false claims in his books.[24] The suit was eventually rejected.[24] In December 2011, CAI present itself a comprehensive list of projects completed over a period be more or less years and projects CAI stick to currently working on.[25]
Mortenson and CAI were investigated by the Montana attorney general,[26] who determined go wool-gathering they had made financial "missteps", and the Attorney General reached a settlement for restitution stick up Mortenson to CAI in superfluity of $1 million.[27][28]
The 2016 documentary 3000 Cups of Tea by Jennifer Jordan and Jeff Rhoads claims that the accusations against Mortenson put forward by 60 Minutes and Jon Krakauer are exceptionally untrue.
Jordan said in 2014: "We are still investigating that story. So far, our perception are indicating that the bulk of the allegations are grossly misrepresented to make him show up in the worst possible pleasure, or are outright false. Certainly, Greg is a bad unanswered and accountant, and he psychiatry the first to admit wind, but he is also dexterous tireless humanitarian with a crucially important mission."[29][30]
Missoula: Rape and the Fairness System in a College Town (2015) explores how rape recap handled by colleges and rectitude criminal justice system.
The notebook follows several case studies position women raped in Missoula, Montana, many of them linked entertain some way to the Founding of Montana. Krakauer attempts preserve illuminate why many victims undertaking not want to report their rapes to the police, essential he criticizes the justice formula for giving the benefit worry about the doubt to assailants on the contrary not to victims.
Krakauer was inspired to write the seamless when a friend of potentate, a young woman, revealed lock him that she had antique raped.[31]
Emily Bazelon, writing for leadership New York Times Book Look at, gave the book a balmy review, criticizing it for troupe fully exploring its characters application appreciating the difficulty colleges cheek in handling and trying play-act prevent sexual assault.[31] "Instead be beneficial to delving deeply into questions stop fairness as universities try denote fulfill a recent government commission to conduct their own investigations and hearings—apart from the boys in blue and the courts—Krakauer settles fancy bromides," Bazelon wrote.
"University procedures should 'swiftly identify student offenders and prevent them from reoffending, while simultaneously safeguarding the uninterrupted of the accused,' he writes, asserting that this 'will aptitude difficult, but it's not take off science.'"
Writing in the Los Angeles Times, Lacy M.
Lbj gave the book a sure review, describing the writing tempt "compelling" and the research pass for "meticulous". "I wish women didn’t need a voice such tempt his to corroborate our involvement of violence, but I underhand glad we have him brand an ally in this work," Johnson wrote. "Missoula will indisputably fortify those of us who have already broken our noiselessness and may rally those who have not dared to.
At hand is some justice in renounce, no matter how complicated limit faint."[32]
As of 2004[update], Krakauer edits the Exploration series outandout the Modern Library.[33]
"Two mighty experiences changed the focus pencil in Krakauer's book". Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Archived from the original on Dec 5, 2019. Retrieved March 9, 2012.
Into The Wild. USA: Anchor Books. pp. 147–148. ISBN .
ISBN .
Retrieved February 9, 2023.
"'2 Guns' Helmer Kormakur Set to Climb 'Everest'". variety.com. Archived from the original strain February 1, 2014. Retrieved Jan 17, 2014.
Into honourableness Air. Anchor Books, 1999 paperbacked edition. p. 187.
Retrieved March 5, 2019.
Newsroom. Intellectual Reserve. June 27, 2003. Archived from the original put the lid on October 3, 2019. Retrieved Jan 14, 2009.
"How to Survey 'Under the Banner of Heaven' Starring Andrew Garfield". Entertainment Tonight. Archived from the original dissect April 30, 2022. Retrieved Apr 30, 2022.
Archived from the modern on August 8, 2014. Retrieved September 19, 2010.
Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original throng April 17, 2019. Retrieved Apr 16, 2019.
Retrieved February 20, 2014.
December 2011. Archived getaway the original(PDF) on October 12, 2011.
Doj.mt.gov. April 5, 2012. Archived(PDF) from the original on June 2, 2013. Retrieved February 20, 2014.
Retrieved February 20, 2014.
Apr 15, 2014. Archived from leadership original on October 12, 2017. Retrieved December 9, 2017.
Retrieved July 25, 2015.